THIS AUCTION IS JUST FOR THE CANTINA BACKGROUND DISPLAY, NO FIGURES OR CANTINA PLAYSET INCLUDED.

This Replacement Background has been scord to wrap correctly around the vintage cantina. Just fold and you are good. All sales are final so please bid accordingly. Turn around is 7-9 days after payment has been sent.

Production Details: Made from 2 - 8.5 x 11 card stock.

Original background

THIS AUCTION IS JUST FOR THE STAND BACKGROUND DISPLAY, NO FIGURES OR STAND PLAYSET INCLUDED.

This Replacement Background has round corners on top portion like the original. All sales are final so please bid accordingly. Turn around is 7-9 days after payment has been sent.

Production Details: Made from 2 - 8.5 x 11 card stock.

Original background

This is a must for collectors. (Ewok Fur is from a teddy bear) Buy Now!

Cardback and Bubble are replacements for your Vintage Figures, cardbacks have not been modified in any way. Items need to ship in a box so the bubbles and cardbacks don’t get crushed or bent.

Back of Cardback

Original picture floating around on the web.

See all here http://tinyurl.com/an8vf5

All sales are final so please bid accordingly. The cards are made from scratch when ordered. Turn around is 7-9 days after payment has been sent.

Replacement Cardbacks should always be treated very delicately. Heat/Cold/Humidity is not good for the photo paper nor the glue used to create these replacement cardbacks.

• WORLDWIDE SHIPPING: Please contact for Pricing

I WILL DISCOUNT SHIPPING FOR MULTIPLE ITEMS

Click Here to view and Bid on Auction!

Cardback and Bubble are replacements for your Vintage Figures, cardbacks have not been modified in any way. Items need to ship in a box so the bubbles and cardbacks don’t get crushed or bent.

Card Your Blue Snaggletooth Action Figure. We use original cardback and made his jumpsuit blue and made location where the figure is located taller.

Here is what the original cardback looks like

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Kenner made a mistake on this figure. Though aesthetically similar in many ways, this version of the figure is 3 3/4 (apposed to the later version which is 2 3/4), sported silver space boots and a blue jump suit. Carrying the same weapon as the small version, the blue Snaggletooth was available only in a sealed Kenner baggie and never on any blistered card back. There has been much talk of this figure being packaged on the Meccano square cards in France, but to date not a single example has ever surfaced.

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All sales are final so please bid accordingly. The cards are made from scratch when ordered. Turn around is 7-9 days after payment has been sent.

Replacement Cardbacks should always be treated very delicately. Heat/Cold/Humidity is not good for the photo paper nor the glue used to create these replacement cardbacks.

• WORLDWIDE SHIPPING: Please contact for Pricing

I WILL DISCOUNT SHIPPING FOR MULTIPLE ITEMS

This auction is for 12 Cards and Bubble only, this is a must for collectors. You get Boba Fett Card and bubble Free, making 13! Buy Now!

Cardback and Bubble are replacements for your Vintage Figures, cardbacks have not been modified in any way. Items need to ship in a box so the bubbles and cardbacks don’t get crushed or bent.

Before and After Pictures: We take the original card front (not back) and make them 100%.

All sales are final so please bid accordingly. The cards are made from scratch when ordered. Turn around is 7-9 days after payment has been sent.

Replacement Cardbacks should always be treated very delicately. Heat/Cold/Humidity is not good for the photo paper nor the glue used to create these replacement cardbacks.

• WORLDWIDE SHIPPING: Please contact for Pricing

I WILL DISCOUNT SHIPPING FOR MULTIPLE ITEMS

Print of card front on self adhesive sticker paper . Print of card back on self adhesive sticker paper . Card stock . Clips. Guillotine Stack Paper Cutter. Diamond 1 Corner Cutter Rounding Machine. Scissors. Art Roller/Brayer.

There are various ways to make cardbacks. This tutorial deals with making them with self adhesive sticker paper and new tools to score and round corners. Much cleaner way of making cardbacks.

1. Print front and Back on self adhesive sticker paper: 8.5 by 11 inches adhesive sticker paper. I use a color laser printer, the toner lasts longer and the prints are awesome. Although the self adhesive sticker paper has a Matte Finish the toner looks glossy.

2. Card Stock: Various thickness’s available. I use 100lb thick pieces, 8.5 by 11 inches. Use what makes you comfortable as long as when you hold the card by the edge it doesn’t bend.

Note: Using the same size cardback card stock and self adhesive sticker paper lets you align the front and back of the cardback properly since Photoshop prints dead on in the center.

3. Applying the self adhesive sticker paper to the front and back of the cardback card stock:

a. Clip the right lower corner of the cardback card stock and the self adhesive paper (do not remove sticker backing yet). Clips cost about $6.00.

b. Align the upper left corner.

c. Hold it then clip the lower left corner.

d. Peel the backing of the self adhesive sticker about half way, and cut the backing.

e. Use your fingers to flatten and stick the exposed adhesive to the cardback card stock. Then take the clips off the bottom of the card.

f. Follow the same procedure for the bottom half. Peel the backing off and stick the exposed adhesive to the cardback card stock.

g. Use the Art Roller/Brayer to permanently stick the adhesive sticker paper to the cardback card stock. Art Roller/Brayer cost about $12.00. Follow the same procedure for the back of the cardback.

4. Scoring (cutting out card):

I am now using a Guillotine Stack Paper Cutter, it takes less time and easier to control the cut. You simply align and bring the hammer down. Guillotine cutter cost about $150.00. If you want to stick to old school, then use a ruler and a box cutter blade.

5. Rounding corners:

You simply align and pull the hammer down. You can do several cards at a time with ease. The Diamond 1 Corner Cutter cost about $130.00. There are cheaper rounders but I found this cutter to be the best.

Canadian Star Wars items were only produced at about 10% of American volume levels. As a result, very few Canadian versions of vintage Star Wars items exist today. Canadian releases of Star Wars toys are unique in that their packaging is bilingual; consisting of English and French text in order to comply with bilingualism laws. This resulted in some very visually striking packaging designs over the course of the original run of Star Wars toys, especially with that of the Star Wars-era toys. It should be strongly noted that Canadian toys have only English and French writing on them; no other languages were ever printed on domestic Canadian-made Star Wars items. Many collectors confuse the multilingual European Star Wars items with Canadian items, especially the Meccano (France) releases. Canadian-made Star Wars items bear the Kenner logo with accompanying Kenner Canada address. In addition, Canada also received many other non-Kenner toy items that were exclusive to the Great White North, such as several plush toys made by Regal Toy Inc.

Supplies:

. Flatbed Scanner . Graphic Editor (Photoshop or PaintShop Pro) . High resolution printer

Images can be downloaded off the Internet, though most will be of low resolution due to file size. Any Star Wars book you’ve been using as source material for your customs will have the kind of images you want, or even an existing action figure card.

Resolution is a difficult issue to settle. Some advocate low-res. (100-200 dpi) while others recommend 600 - 800 dpi. However you will be able to tweak and edit the high-roes image much more easily because of the higher definition of detail.

1. SCANNING CARD/ERASING OLD DATA/ADDING NEW DATA: Create a template card by scanning the card that you want to edit. Erase all unwanted information on the card like the picture of the figure, the name, and any other details you decide. You do this by using a paint program to color the scan you made to make it ready for you to insert the reference image and print it out.

2. PICTURES: Find reference pictures that you want to use for the photograph on the card. Once you have done that scan the picture so that you may combine it with the template.

3. THE BEST METHOD: The better (but more time consuming) method is to create a template in your graphic program and add each image as a layer. This will allow you to move the images around to get rid of gaps or overlaps. Then print the final version out.

Variants

“In the interest of better quality and value we are constanly improving and updating our products. Consequently, pictures on this package may sometimes differ from the model enclosed“. This is the standard text on the back of Hasbro products. When a flaw is dicovered during a production run the product is altered. A slight paintjob correction or alternate pose of the figure inside the package is called a variant.

I’ve tried to keep up with every variant of figures ’till the SAGA line but there’s simply too much out there! I have sold almost every variant I had but I have some left. Here you see a ROTS Emperor Palpatine with a blue coloured lightsaber instead of the Sith-colour red. (On the back of the package you see a picture of the right, Sith lightsaber).

Errors

People make mistakes. In the factory or the design department people sometimes mess up. The cardback can be  misprinted, the figure can have too much or too little paint and sometimes accessoiries are not packed in the bubble while they should have been. The nicest type of error (in my opinion) is an action figure placed on a wrong cardback. Hasbro tries to pick all the mistakes and destroy them but sometimes these mistakes make it to the store shelves. Errors are mostly one of a kind and appeal to many collectors because of their uniqueness.

Sometimes a cardback has a wrong text or number on it (Episode I Captain Panaka for instance: the first release has a wrong CommTech speech line on the back which was corrected later). Some collector’s call this an error while most call this a variation because we’re talking about bigger numbers here and not a unique mistake. I agree with the last.

Here’s an example of some of the errors in my collection: an Episode I Watto on a Darth Sidious cardback and an Episode I Queen Amidala Battle (with CommTalk sticker btw - the only one i’ve ever seen!!) with the bubble glued not straight on the cardback.

Mockups

A mockup or mock up is an action figure on a test packaging. Hasbro does this before they start general production of the packed action figures to see how it will look. I have seen a mockup at POTF2.com of a fomecore picture (!) of POTF2 Flashback Anakin Skywalker inside a bubble on mockup packaging!
The action figure is usually a prototype figure without paint or handpainted because the final product is not done yet.

I own a mockup Red R2 unit (originally packed with the Episode I Naboo Royal Starship) on Episode I cardback. It was placed on a Gasgano cardback and Battle Droid CommTech chip.

Customs

Something I personally have never been interested in is customizing: collectors make their own version of an action figuring usually by using parts of existing Hasbro figures. By boiling them in water the limbs pop off and you can start mixing the parts together. The experienced customizers use all kinds of moulding clay and tools like a Dremel to make their own unique action figures. I don’t have cumtoms in my collection but if you’re interested in these you can find more information and pictures at this site:
http://www.thecustomalliance.com/

Prototypes

A prototype is an action figure before is goes into production. Often it’s a test figure in non-production colours. There are many different types of proto’s because there are a lot of production stages before an action figuge actually goed into production. I have one loose prototype of POTJ Mas Amedda. It is holding some kind of lightsaber hilt. I don’t know where it comes from because the actual production fig doesn’t come with any accessoiry.

Cancelled action figures

To design and produce an action figures costs a lot of money. Hasbro spends tens of thousands of dollars on one single figure before it goes into mass production. The sculpting is expensive as well as creating the mold to make different body parts. After the different stages of production Hasbro can get their investment back. You can imagine that it doesn’t make sense to create a figure and not release in onto the market but it sometimes happens.

After the hype of Episode I died, the toys didn’t sell well anymore. Hasbro was pretty far in the process of making a whole new collection of CommTech action figures (the oval shaped Commtech 2 or CTC2 chips with twice the speech capability) but they decided not to release them in the Episode I line.

Later these figures were released in the POTJ and SAGA lines for the reasons I described above. There are however quite some figures out there on cancelled Episode I cardbacks. I own one which you can see here below:

Unproduced

This type of collectible is almost impossible to find. Hasbro doesn’t design figures just to not sell them afterwards. There are a few. In the vintage line of figures there were some kit bashed figures that didn’t make it to production and also in the Episode I range there are in my knowledge four examples of toys that would (or should) have been but haven’t (yet) made it to the store shelves.

There’s the holographic Queen Amidala Coruscant and Obi-Wan Kenobi Light Up figures (the same type as the Walmart exclusive Darth Maul and Qui-Gon Jinn figures). There’s also the holographic Nute Gunray figure that was planned in the cancelled oval CommTech2 (CTC2) line. Like the holographic Darth Sidious was made out of the regular Darth Didious mold, the holo Nuto was made with the regular Episode I Nute Gunray figure but made of translucent material. My guess is that the holo Nute Gunray will be released someday in a different Star Wars line.

I know of only one existing carded unproduced figure: Obi-Wan Kenobi with Gungan Sub Trophy. This figure was supposed to be the third in the exclusive Trophy assortment after Darth Maul with Sith Infiltrator trophy and OOM-9 with Trade Federation Tank Trophy (released later as a single carded figure without the “Trophy” after bad sales of the Darth Maul set). I have this one too (and I am selling it right now. Mail me if you’re interested). You can see it here below.

Kit bashed figures

Kit bashing is creating a “new” action figure using parts of existing figures. Now that there are no more Star Wars movies to be released and the demand for Star Wars action figures will get smaller Hasbro does this more and more. They don’t have to make costly new molds and just have to redo the paint job and sell it as a new figure. (Sad) examples of kit bashing are the SAGA Cantina Bar figures with Momaw Nadon, Greedo and some other old figs and the Jedi Foul Moudama made out of the POTF2 Muftak figure parts. I personally am not interested in kit bashed figures but Hasbro continues to make ‘em as long as there’s demand for it (so someone has to love ‘em I guess…).

Rehashed figures

It’s a flaw more and more common these days… Hasbro re-releases old action figures in new packaging. When you think you have a hard to find piece in your collection It’s just a matter of time before it’s rehashed by Hasbro. The #1 reason for collector’s to stop collecting. It’s great that kids get new opportunities to buy cool scarcely released figures but it doesn’t do the collectiong community much good. The OTC line of figures only has about four new sculpt. The rest of the figures was previously released.
The worst example is Cantina Han Solo from the CommTech POTF2 line which reïncarnated in the 2002 SAGA line, the OTC line and it was packed with some vehicles, like the rehashed Millennium Falcon in the OTC line. (these Han Solo pics come from Rebelscum.com).